Early in the morning, we leave Swakopmund and head north towards the entrance of the Skeleton Coast National Park. Stretching from the Swakop River in the south to the border with Angola in the north, the Skeleton Coast was named by the Bushmen as the land that God created in his wrath. It is one of the most inhospitable places on the planet, where it seems all the elements have joined forces against humankind. Here, a sandy desert covering an area of about 20,000 km², dotted with the remains of over a thousand ships, meets the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean, and the coastline is often shrouded in thick fog. Accompanied by strong winds, powerful currents, and treacherous shallows, it turns the coast into a genuine trap for all kinds of vessels. The joy of shipwreck survivors reaching the shore was quickly replaced by despair, realising they would never escape. Especially in the times before ship engines were invented, sailing back to the ocean was impossible due to the constant powerful surf. Similarly, the chances of survival in the endless dry desert, where the amount of rainfall rarely exceeds 10 mm annually, were just as negligible. Yet somehow, incredible wildlife and plant diversity manage to survive in this harsh and beautiful environment. Here live colonies of sea birds, seals, zebras, gemsbok (the largest oryx species), desert-adapted elephants, lions, and many more. The place is also favoured by surfers drawn to the powerful, perfectly shaped waves, while photographers flock from around the world to capture the rusting skeletons of ships embraced by the sands and the entire natural grandeur of this perilous land. Right at the entrance of the national park, the huge sign with a skull and crossbones indicates that proceeding further is at your own risk. However, we will be in the safe hands of our guides, who will even take us to the wildest northern part of the park, where ordinary visitors are not allowed.

During our adventure along the Skeleton Coast, we make a quick stop at the mouth of the Uniab River to see some of the many bird species found in the park. After lunch, we continue north, crossing the dry bed of the Hoanib River until we reach Terrace Bay, which is our last stop for refueling for the next week. We spend the night in the area north of Möwe Bay, where we'll first touch upon the mysteries and dramas we will see and hear in the coming days.

Möwe Bay is the northern terminus of Road C34. The place serves as the centre of the Skeleton Coast National Park but is strictly forbidden for ordinary and solo travellers. Only groups led by licensed guides with special permission can step here. Möwe Bay has a small museum that presents the history of shipwrecks in the vicinity (including through artefacts), as well as the skeletons of wild animals found in the area. On the nearby beach, scattered with semi-precious stones, lie the remains of the ship "Suiderkus." The local seal colony provides rich prey for hyenas, jackals, and sometimes desert lions. Nearby are several springs, which are part of the linear oasis system in the Hoanib Valley.