Early in the morning, we leave Swakopmund and head north towards the entrance to the Skeleton Coast National Park. Stretching from the Swakop River in the south to the border with Angola in the north, the Skeleton Coast was called by the Bushmen the Land that God created in His anger. It's one of the most inhospitable places on the planet, where all elements seemed to unite against mankind. Here, a sandy desert covering about 20,000 km², scattered with the remains of over a thousand ships, meets the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean, and the coastline is often shrouded in thick fog. Together with strong winds, powerful currents, and treacherous shallows, it turns the coast into a real trap for all sorts of vessels. The joy of the shipwrecked who reached the shore was quickly replaced by despair, as they realised they would never escape from here. Especially before the invention of ship engines, sailing back to the ocean was impossible due to the constant powerful surf. Equally slim were the chances of survival in the endless dry desert, where the rainfall rarely exceeds 10 mm annually. Yet in this harsh but beautiful environment, an incredible variety of wildlife and plants somehow manage to survive. Here live colonies of sea birds, seals, zebras, gemsbok (the largest species of oryx), desert-adapted elephants, lions, and many others. The place is also favoured by surfing enthusiasts drawn by the powerful waves with perfect shape, and photographers flock from all over the world to capture the rusting skeletons of ships engulfed by sands, and the entirety of the natural grandeur of this perilous land. Right at the entrance to the national park, there’s a huge sign with a skull and crossbones, hinting that continuing further is at your own risk. However, we will be in the safe hands of our guides, who will even take us to the wildest northern part of the park, where ordinary visitors are not permitted.

During our adventure along the Skeleton Coast, we make a quick stop at the mouth of the Uniab River to see some of the many bird species that can be found in the park. After lunch, we continue north, crossing the dry bed of the Hoanib River, until we reach Terrace Bay, our last stop for refuelling for the next week. We overnight in the area north of Mowe Bay, where for the first time we will touch the mysteries and dramas we will see and hear over the coming days.

Mowe Bay is the northern endpoint of route S34. The place serves as a hub for the Skeleton Coast National Park, but it is strictly forbidden for ordinary and independent travellers. Only groups led by licensed guides with special permission can set foot here. In Mowe Bay, there's a small museum that presents the history of the shipwrecks in the vicinity (including through artefacts), as well as the skeletons of wild animals found in the area. On the nearby beach, littered with semi-precious stones, the remains of the Suiderkus ship still lie. The local seal colony provides rich prey for hyenas, jackals, and sometimes desert lions. Nearby are several springs, which are part of the linear oasis system in the Hoanib Valley.