You're not ready for Ethiopia. And that's exactly why you should go.

15 Questions About Ethiopia That Alexander Answers with More Colour Than the Danakil Desert

Alexander Stankov

Not every story begins with "One day I set off for Africa…"

But some do actually continue like that – with lava, 47-degree heat, molten magma under your feet and people who not only live differently – they refuse to change.

Sasho sets off for the Omo tribes without even finishing reading the itinerary (we know why – he simply trusts us). He returns with a story about a rumbling volcano, tribes that don’t “sell out,” and an air conditioner repaired with makeshift materials in the middle of the hottest SPOT on Earth.

This is not quite your classic blog interview, but a stream of sensations, smiles, and “Man, oh man!,” told from the roof of a jeep.

Read to the end – and you’ll understand why Ethiopia can't be contained in a narrative.
But still, Sasho tried. And we think he did an excellent job.

1. What was the moment in Ethiopia that you will never forget – and why?

With the slight clarification that even now my memory isn’t in perfect condition, and whether this memory will last “a lifetime” or not, but certainly my first “encounter” with Ethiopia was quite astounding. I mostly went with the idea of getting in touch with the tribes inhabiting the Omo River valley, and hadn't even paid attention to the other stops on our itinerary (to be honest, I rarely read it anyway – I just know it’s going to be cool, and that’s enough for me).

So somehow I missed the fact that I was in for an incredible encounter with an active volcano – or rather expected that we would sit on a hill watching something smoking in the distance at a mountain’s peak. Perhaps precisely because I had no great expectations, this experience turned into the Moment with a capital “M” – and it happened on the very first day of the adventure called Ethiopia.

When that smoking peak I imagined in the distance turned out to be two massive smoking craters literally meters from my eyes. When recently solidified magma crunches a bit frighteningly under my feet. When I start to feel the strongly suffocating smoke, and my eyes begin to water intensely. When, standing on the edge of the crater, I see the boiling lava, hypnotically moving and bubbling, ready at any moment to erupt and flood everything around.

When I forget even the danger that this 1200-degree molten rock could incinerate me in mere seconds. Then I say to myself – here, this moment I will surely remember and tell about. Whether it will be for a lifetime – only time will tell.

2. How has this journey changed your perception of the world – or of yourself?

The truth is, every journey changes my perception of the world in one way or another – that’s precisely why I travel, perhaps. If I have to choose just one thing from the Ethiopian adventure that changed my views, it might be this: somewhere in the world, there are people who don’t strive for a “better” life. What do I mean... I’ve been to quite a few poor countries where people walk barefoot, have nothing to eat, but for the first time in Ethiopia, I encountered people who have lived the same way for centuries. These are the nomads of the Afar region, to whom the state tries to give aid – with wells, housing constructions, or schools – but they steadfastly follow the steps of their ancestors, wandering through the endless dry desert lands, living in low crouched structures made of branches, stones, covered with skins or whatever they find, digging holes in the ground to find groundwater. They often traverse hundreds of kilometres to find a water source. So for these people, evolution has not occurred – but they are happy with their lifestyle and fiercely protect and pass it on to their children. They don’t know what a water tap is, let alone a phone, internet, fashion, music, influencers... They don’t live in communities – they spend their lives alone, surrounded by hundreds of kilometres of desert and millions of stars overhead. It might sound romantic, but by no means compatible with the human evolution lodged in my perceptions of the world. 

Was there anything that surprised you – not just culturally, but as a sensation?

In terms of culture and nature, it’s clear that every other step in the beautiful lands of Ethiopia has something to surprise you. But as a sensation – perfectly in unison with the answer to the previous question – it was precisely this slightly uncomfortable feeling that clenches your heart when you see how people live, wandering through the deserts of Afar. I repeat – I have travelled to so many poor places in the world, but for the first time and only in this SPOT in Ethiopia did I feel this heart clenching sensation. Perhaps emphasized by the endless desolation surrounding this region.

What did you see in the eyes of those you met there?

To be honest – people are people, just like anywhere else. In some eyes, I saw pure and sincere curiosity – like people who don’t see tourists that often. In some eyes, I saw happiness, in others – a tough life. In most, there was a sparkle, and it seemed a fire for life.

What would you say to someone debating whether to take such a trip?

Well, what would I say – “This chocolate is terrible, don’t eat it!” (so there’s more for me, of course). I think that after I told them my stories from Ethiopia, there was no need for more words. Naturally, there are people who would say this isn’t for them – and they’d be right. But you, who are reading this – I’m sure you’re of that “blood group” that would love such an adventure.

Is there anything you brought back from Ethiopia – and no, not a souvenir?

I brought back the stories that – as I already mentioned – I might tell for the rest of my life. The memories, a significantly expanded worldview… and a little cold and sore throat, of course.

If you could describe Ethiopia with one painting, what would be in it?

It would be an abstract painting, like Jackson Pollock’s, with dozens of different colours. Colorful – like the Danakil Desert, seen from a bird’s eye view. Because if I had to describe Ethiopia in a few words, they would be: a chaotic riot of colours and people.

How did you feel when you first stepped in Ethiopia?

Sweaty. Especially after we bravely plunged into a 47-degree adventure at the hottest place in the world in the first few days. And when the jeep’s air conditioner broke down and we were deprived of its services for an hour – I felt, how should I say… even sweatier. But then – now I have something to tell. And for the record – the air conditioner was successfully repaired with makeshift materials and we survived to answer these questions today.

Was there a moment when something clicked inside you and you felt in the right place?

I always feel I’m in the right place – especially when I’m in a place that clicks with my notions of what’s interesting: colourful, with interesting people, beautiful nature, impressive culture, and an exciting adventure. So Ethiopia wasn’t just a “click” – but more like constant finger-snapping.

Which local person did you wish to spend more time with – and why?

There was this really amazing girl in one of the tribes – I just didn’t want to leave. Hahaha. Just kidding, of course 😊 As I said at the beginning, the purpose of my trip was to get in touch with the local tribes of the Omo Valley, considered some of the most preserved in terms of traditions and customs. And although there’s always the doubt that everything is just for tourists, my dream was to go and see for myself. And quite honestly – the reality exceeded my expectations. Those three days were so dynamic – from tribe to tribe. They were so different from one another that at times I could barely absorb all the interesting things I learned and that my eyes saw. But to dispel any doubts about what I’m saying – it’s best for you to check for yourself like I did. I would definitely spend more time among those tribes.

What did you find in the silence of nature there?

What silence! Ethiopia is definitely not for people who want to seclude themselves and find themselves in the silence of nature. The first night in nature I couldn’t hear my thoughts from the strong wind. The second – foxes could be heard. Ethiopia is thousands of sounds, each more exciting than the last (except for the Ethiopian music, inexplicably borrowed from Indian music). Why would you need silence? 😊

If you had to talk about Ethiopia without words – just with a gesture or look – what would it be?

I can only answer this question in a vlog because here, I have nothing but words. But the gesture would be super, and the look – more than happy to have touched such a tremendously exciting place.

What did this journey teach you about the simple things in life?

It taught me that if someone’s way of life seems utterly unacceptable to my views, it doesn’t give me the right to pity those people – because they actually like their way of life. And if they saw how we live in the developed world, maybe they'd pity us instead. After this lesson – from a local boy from the tribes – I just stopped looking at them with a heavy heart feeling sorry for them, and accepted them as they are: colourful, interesting, dancing, strange, original, but above all – happy. In their own way, of course.

What do you keep saying to yourself since then?

“Man, oh man!”
Because we had a strong group from Pleven, and they got me hooked on that phrase. And not only that – but everything in Ethiopia can be described with: “Man, oh man, it was awesome!”

Some people travel to escape. Others – to find themselves. And others – like Sasho – just set out because they know it’s going to be awesome. And that’s enough for them.

Ethiopia is not easy. It’s not orderly. It’s not that “insta-perfect” beautiful you can put in a frame.
But it’s noisy, colourful, primal, absurd, sometimes ridiculous – and exactly because of that, real.

And sometimes, if you’re in the right place, in the right group, and with a slightly broken air conditioner… you can discover a new part of yourself in the most challenging conditions.

“Man, oh man…” Sometimes that’s all you need to know you’ve been alive.

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