You're not ready for Ethiopia. And that's exactly why you should go.

15 Questions About Ethiopia That Alexander Answers with More Colour Than the Danakil Desert

Alexander Stankov

Not every story starts with "One day I set off for Africa..."

But some do just that – with lava, 47-degree heat, molten magma underfoot, and people who don't just live differently – they refuse to change.

Sasho sets off for the tribes of the Omo, without even finishing the program (we know why – he simply trusts us). He returns with a story about a crunching volcano, tribes that aren't 'for sale,' and an air conditioner that gets repaired with makeshift materials in the hottest place on Earth.

This isn't exactly your classic blog interview, but a stream of sensations, smiles, and "Mate, wow!", told from the roof of a jeep.

Read to the end – and you'll understand why Ethiopia doesn't fit in a story.
But still, Sasho tried. And in our opinion, he did splendidly.

1. What was the moment in Ethiopia that you'll never forget as long as you live – and why?

With the slight note that my memory isn’t in the best shape even now, and whether this memory will endure 'till the end of my life,' who knows, but certainly my first 'collision' with Ethiopia was quite staggering. I went primarily with the idea to connect with the tribes inhabiting the Omo Valley and hadn’t even paid attention to the other stops in our itinerary (if I’m honest, I rarely read it anyway – I just know it'll be great, and that's enough for me).

So I somehow missed the fact that an incredible encounter with an active volcano awaited me – or rather, I expected we'd line up on some little hill, watching something puffing off in the mountain’s distance. Maybe because I didn’t have grand expectations, this experience turned into The Moment with a capital 'M' – and that on the first day of the adventure called Ethiopia.

When that smoking peak in the distance, which I imagined, actually turned out to be two enormous smoking craters literally meters from my eyes. When recently solidified magma crunched slightly alarmingly under my feet. When I began to feel the intense suffocating smoke and my eyes started tearing irrationally. Standing on the edge of the crater, seeing the boiling lava, hypnotizingly moving and bubbling, ready to erupt any moment and engulf everything around.

When I even forgot the danger that this 1200-degree molten rock could incinerate me in mere fractions of a second. That's when I thought – yes, this moment will surely stick and be something I’ll recount. Whether it'll be till the end of my life – only time will tell.

2. How did this journey change your view of the world – or yourself?

The truth is, every journey changes my view of the world in one way or another – perhaps that’s why I travel. If I had to pick just one thing from the adventure in Ethiopia that shifted my perceptions, it might be realizing that somewhere out there, in the world, there are people who aren’t striving for a 'better' life. What do I mean... I've been to quite a few poor countries where people walk barefoot, have nothing to eat, but for the first time in Ethiopia, I encountered people who have lived the same way for centuries. These are the nomads of the Afar region, to whom the state tries to provide help – with wells, housing, or schools – but they unwaveringly follow their ancestors' footsteps, wandering the endless dry desert lands, living in low shelters made of branches, stones, covered with skins or whatever they find, and digging holes in the ground to discover underground water. They often traverse hundreds of kilometers to find a water source. So for these people, evolution never really happened – yet they are happy with their way of life, fiercely protecting it and passing it on to their children. They don’t know what a water tap is, let alone a phone, internet, fashion, music, influencers... They don’t even live in communities – they spend their lives alone, surrounded by hundreds of kilometers of desert and millions of stars overhead. It might sound romantic, but certainly not compatible with the human evolution nestled within my world understanding. 

Was there something that surprised you – not just culturally, but in how it felt?

Culturally and naturally, it’s clear that every other step through Ethiopia’s beautiful lands holds something to surprise you. But as for feelings – very much in tune with the previous answer – was that slightly unpleasant feeling that wrenches your heart when you see how the people wandering the Afar deserts live. Again, I've circled so many poor places around the world, but for the first time and only in this region of Ethiopia did I feel that heart-wrenching feeling. Maybe accentuated by the endless desolation surrounding you in this area.

What did you see in the eyes of the people there – those you met eyes with?

If I must be honest – people are people, just as anywhere else. In some eyes, I saw pure and unadulterated curiosity – like those who don’t see tourists that often. In some, I saw happiness, in others – a hard life. Most had a twinkle, almost a fire for life.

What would you say to someone wondering whether to take such a trip?

Oh, what would I say – "This chocolate is terrible, don’t eat it!" (so there's more for me, of course). I think after I shared my stories from Ethiopia, no more words were needed. Naturally, there are people who’d say it’s not for them – and they'd be right. But you, reading this – I’m sure you belong to that 'blood group' that would relish such an adventure.

Is there something you brought back with you from Ethiopia – and no, not talking about souvenirs?

I brought back the stories, which – as I've mentioned – I might tell until the end of my life. The memories, a significantly broadened perspective...and a slight cold and sore throat, of course.

If you could describe Ethiopia with one picture, what would it depict?

It would be an abstract painting, like Jackson Pollock’s, with dozens of colours, like the Danakil Desert seen from a bird’s eye view. Because if I had to describe Ethiopia in a handful of words, they’d be: a chaotic spectacle of hues, seen from a bird’s-eye view.

How did you feel when you first set foot in Ethiopia?

Sweaty. Especially after we bravely ventured into the world’s hottest place in the first few days with zeal. And when the air conditioner in our jeep broke and for an hour we were deprived of its service – I felt, how should I say… even sweatier. But then again, the air conditioner was successfully patched up with makeshift materials and we survived to allow me to answer this question today.

Was there anything that surprised you – not just culturally, but emotionally?

As for culture and nature, it's clear that every second step through Ethiopia's beautiful lands has something to surprise you. Emotionally – very much in line with the answer to the previous question – it was precisely that slightly unpleasant feeling that tightens your chest when you see how people, wandering through the Afar deserts, live. Again, I repeat – I have seen so many poor places around the world, but for the first time and only in this place in Ethiopia did I feel that heart-pang. Maybe highlighted by the endless desolation that surrounds you in this region.

What did you see in the eyes of the people there – those you met gaze with?

Honestly – people are people, just like anywhere else. In some eyes, I saw pure and unadulterated curiosity – like from people who don’t often see tourists. In some eyes, I saw happiness, in others – hardship. In most, there was a sparkle and almost a fire for life.

What would you say to someone who is debating whether to embark on such a journey?

Well, what would I say – "This chocolate is terrible, don’t eat it!" (so there’s more for me, of course). I think after telling them my stories from Ethiopia, no more words were required. Naturally, there are people who will say it’s not for them – and they’ll be right. But you, the one reading this – I’m sure you’re among that 'blood type' that would be thrilled by such an adventure.

Is there anything you brought back from Ethiopia – and no, not talking about a physical souvenir?

I brought back stories, which – as I’ve already mentioned – I will perhaps tell for the rest of my life. Memories, greatly expanded worldviews… and a slight cold and some aches and pains.

If you had to depict Ethiopia with a single picture, what would it have?

It would be an abstract painting, like Jackson Pollock’s, filled with dozens of colours, seen from above like the Danakil Desert. Because if I had to describe Ethiopia in a few words, they would be: a vibrant chaos from above.

How did you feel when you first set foot in Ethiopia?

Sweaty. Especially since we boldly ventured into the world’s hottest place during our first few days. And when the jeep’s air conditioner broke and we were without it for an hour – how to put it… even sweatier. But then again, we managed to repair the air conditioning with makeshift materials and survived after all, so I’m here to answer this question today.

Was there a moment you felt like you were in the right place?

I always feel like I’m in the right place – especially when I’m somewhere that ‘clicks’ with my understanding. So Ethiopia wasn’t just a ‘click’ – it was more of a constant snapping of fingers.

Was there someone you wished you spent more time with from Ethiopia – and why?

There was a really cool chick in one of the tribes – I didn’t want to leave at all. Hahaha. At the start, my goal for the trip was to connect with the local tribes of the Omo Valley, which are considered some of the most traditional. And though there’s always the doubt that it’s all just for the tourists, my dream was to go and see for myself. And to be entirely honest – reality exceeded my expectations. They were so different from each other, that at times I could hardly absorb all the interesting things I learned and saw. But to truly check – just like me, you should go and explore yourself. I would certainly spend more time among these tribes.

What did you discover in the silence of nature there?

It taught me that if someone’s way of life seems unacceptable according to my understanding, it doesn’t give me any right to pity them. They are as they are: colourful, interesting, dancing, strange, original – but most importantly, happy. If they could see how we live in the developed world, maybe they’d feel pity for us.

If you had to describe Ethiopia without words – only with a gesture or a look – what would it be?

To this question, I could only answer with words, since I can't make gestures here. But the gesture would be amazing, and the look – more than happy to have connected with this incredibly thrilling place.

What did you learn about the simple things in life from this trip?

It taught me that just because someone’s way of life seems unacceptable to me based on my own understandings, it doesn’t give me any right to judge them. And if they saw how we live in the developed world, they might feel sorry for us. After this lesson – from a local boy from the tribes – I accepted them as they are: colourful, interesting, dancing, strange, native, but above all – happy.

What do you repeat to yourself ever since?

"Wow, mate!"
Because we had a fantastic group from Pleven with us. Everything in Ethiopia can be summed up with: "Wow, mate, it was amazing!"

Some people travel to seek an escape, others to find themselves. And some, like Sasho, just head off because they know it’s going to be amazing. And that’s enough for them.

Ethiopia is not easy. It's not orderly. It’s not something you can frame.
But it's loud, colourful, primal, absurd, sometimes preposterous – and that’s exactly why it’s authentic.

And sometimes, if you find yourself with a slightly broken air conditioner in the right place at the right time...you might discover a new part of yourself in the toughest conditions.

"Wow, mate…" Sometimes, that’s all it takes to know that you’ve been alive.

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